Café scene in the market square (Place Charles de Gaulle)

Sunday, March 20, 2011

A well earned lunch in Bordeaux

It's been a number of days since I last blogged and while they say a week's a long time in politics, in some respects it's even longer running a B&B and property management service in Ribérac.  Since my last posting the dear old world seems to have gone mad.  Horror in Sendai, thousands of people engulfed by a wall of water, whilst stoical survivors eke out an existence in freezing conditions as the snow falls and radiation creeps.  Nearer home Sarkozy appears to have launched his 2012 presidential campaign by bombing Libya, albeit with the power and approval of the United States.  Meanwhile, here in Ribérac spring is quietly getting on with the job in hand; blossom billows and gently envelops us with its beautiful scents. It is indeed a strange world.

 

The hawthorn blossom fights with typical roadside signage

Last Friday Lesley and I decided a lunch in Bordeaux would be a pleasant reward for our efforts over the last two weeks.  We'd had a couple of beefy garden jobs plus quite a few B&B bookings of people taking up our current 'Special Offer' on TripAdvisor.  This, a free bottle of bubbly and evening meal if people decided to stay with us for six nights or more.  We parked up at La Buttinière tram stop on the outskirts of Bordeaux city, gave the nice lady in the kiosk 3.60 euros and jumped on a tram which shortly afterwards deposited us in the centre of town.

 

The nearest tram stop for Bordeaux centre

 

Travelling in style to our lunch
A short walk past some of the lofty newly renovated creamy facades of Bordeaux brought us to a lovely building on the corner of rue des Bahutiers in the fourth arrondisement;  we knew we were getting close.  Up the narrow street a little, then a 90º turn to the right and into the rue Maucoudinat and there at 21 one will find a remarkable restaurant named 'Le Franchouillard'.

 

Nearly there

 

Some of the staff beat us to the door at Le Franchouillard

Remarkable, because it sits at the touristic epicentre of Bordeaux.  Remarkable, because it is able to serve up a 3 course meal with a free 75cl bottle of splendid house wine (Red or Rosé) plus a free digestive.  Remarkable, because on a day with a certain nip in the air we were led to a table that took pride of place in front of a roaring log fire.  The clock struck midi as were were handed the menu du jour.  

 

Despite it being the middle of March, this was very welcome


 

The ambience was just right.  The Bordelais at lunch

We were soon ready to order, Lesley plumping for a starter of Maroilles cheese served in a tartlette whilst I tucked into a delightful gesier salad.  Both were delicious and in the normal course of events we would have sighed at this point "ça suffit" but we were celebrating so onwards we went.  Lesley continued with a dish based on haddock or 'eglefin'.  Meanwhile I got down to the serious business of tackling a succulent bavette, akin to a juicy steak.  The sweet that followed was an absolute triumph.  It consisted of chocolate truffles served with cream and some finely cut almond type wafers. 

 

The sweet, chocolate truffles with almond wafers

We were in gastro heaven and all this wondrously enhanced by a warm, convivial atmosphere set amongst lofty ceilings, numerous arches and an eclectic mix of clientèle all added to a rather special lunchtime experience.  Coffees followed, then a digestive of Poire William to round off the experience.  To say the lunch was good value for money would truly be an understatement.  As Lesley and I sipped our postprandial expressos we reflected on our lunch, trying to work out how the restaurant could deliver such a meal in such surroundings at such a price.  We decided not to ask too many questions and happily handed the patron 28 euros and promised him our speedy return.  Bravo Fabien!

 

A man, quite obviously happy in his work.  The patron proudly displays the Le Franchouillard card


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