Tree climbing in the Charente

Everything Valentin needs can be packed into the back of his faithful Renault Twingo

This is the time of year when outdoor activities come into their own.  Walking, cycling, horse riding, or just climbing trees.  Well not exactly just climbing trees but in particularly 'Grimpe encadrée dans les arbres'.  Halfway between the beautiful village of Aubeterre sur Dronne and Saint Severin just over the border in the Charente you will find the small hamlet of Nabinaud.  Here, set amongst some magnificent specimens of oak trees the 'Association Tik et Tak' runs tree climbing courses for all.  If you are aged anywhere between 7 and 70 and beyond, fitness allowing, you could find yourself, dangling high off the ground, swinging Tarzan like, amongst the green canopy of this lovely area of unspoilt countryside.

Valentin preparing all the necessary equipment for an afternoon in the trees

This is a great way to test oneself if one is afraid of heights, and I put myself firmly in this catergory.  After meeting my instructor, a really nice guy named Valentin Vila, who immediately put me at my ease, I was asked if I would like to participate in the 'Mini tyro' or the 'Grande tyro' ('tyro' meaning Tyrolean as in mountains and high scary places).  With Lesley looking on with keen interest I felt compelled to blurt out "La Grande Tyro s'il vous plait."  Perhaps I would not have volunteered if it hadn't been for Valentin.  Having looked him up and down I decided reassuringly that he looked a strong and capable man;  in fact a man of the trees if not the mountains.

Easy as she goes, suspended in the emerald forest

In what seemed an all too brief time of beginners instruction conducted in a sort of strangled 'Franglais' we were ready for the off;  well, kind of.  It is incredibly difficult to get yourself off the ground and into any sort of rythmn whilst suspended in a harness that seems to squeeze everything a little too tight.  Valentin offered me a loop hanging off one of the many ropes that dropped down from the crown of the dizzying oak tree.  He described it as a 'pedale' and being a keen cyclist I was able to quickly grasp the idea behind it.  Step in the 'pedale' with your right foot whilst moving the 'magic loop' up the rope with your left hand.  Slowly and surely you find yourself leaving the ground behind and getting up amongst the foliage.  Down with the right foot, up with the left hand and so on, you begin to feel more confident as the people below become more and more remote.  

Heading for terra firma

When one is not used to this sort of thing it is difficult to accept that the rope is holding you, and that you don't have to cling to the tree, sloth like, in order to prevent instant death.  But it  does take some getting used to.  By degrees I arrived at a massive limb high up in the tree and the figure of Valentin standing atop, guiding me in.  It was at this point you have to be released from the carabiner that has hauled you up, onto another one, that will, hopefully see you down.  I gingerly clambered up onto the branch and quivering, vaguely heard Valentin's instructions of how to get myself out of the tree and down to the ground via the zip wire.  Frankly, by this time, I just wanted to plunge into space and return to terra firma asap.  After a few words of reassurance from Valentin I launched myself into space and whizzed down, splashes of green flashing past my vision at a rate of knots.  Well, of course, what an adrenalin rush!  I surged to a stop, spinning around like a demented dervish, about 5 metres off the ground.  Remembering Valentin's instructions I was able to gently release myself and slipped slowly down the rope onto the welcoming grass.  For me, this was a big deal, and it was a fear of more extreme heights conquered (I think).  Of course, for others it may not have the same depth of meaning, but for whatever reason I would wholeheartedly recommend this activity to anyone.  At the very least it will give you an understanding of climbing and how the equipment works, and at best, for some of us, it may lay a few ghosts. 

A night in the trees?  Take your pick, nest or hammock

Valentin offers some interesting alternatives to tree climbing.  Tired of the old four poster and en-suite bathroom then why not try a night in the trees?  Yes, you can spend a night 'Nuit en nid d'arbre' or if that doesn't grab you, suspended in a hammock, sharing the nightlife amongst which owls and bats.  So go on, get yourself along to 'Association Tik et Tak' and enjoy an alternative experience. 

On the Dronne with Apach Canoe

 

This young man can't wait to get aboard!

One of Lesley and myself's favourite pastimes at this time of year is to get a canoe out on the river.  So while temperatures remain consistently high we decided to canoe a lovely stretch between the picturesque hameau of Creyssac and Lisle.  Part of the fun of an afternoon on the river is to pack a picnic so fresh ham and mustard baguette rolls were made up along with half a bottle of chilled rosé and packed into the coldbox.

At Creyssac, Romain describes the 5 barrages that await us downstream

A twenty minute drive from Ribérac, on the Perigueux road, will take you in the direction of Lisle.  On the outskirts of Lisle you will find 'Apach Canoe' run by a really nice young couple, Romain and Marine. We parked under the shade of a tree and unpacked our lunch onto a nearby conveniently placed picnic table.  Whilst we chatted amongst the chatting cicadas, Romain and his family lunched just outside their acceuil.  Mutual 'Bon Appetit's " were exchanged and then the serious business of lunching began.

These beautiful stones covered in iron oxide are abundant on the river bottom

Forty minutes or so later we were ready for the river whose level looked suprisingly promising.  After a quick health and safety check run through we were handed paddles and life jackets.  Romain and I loaded an appropriate canoe onto the trailer and we were ready to be vanned up to Creyssac.  Here, Romain deposited us at the side of the river and after a few calls of 'Bon Courage', Romain launched us into the river.

We approach one of the 5 barriers between Creyssac and Lisle

Despite being the 'Fete National', the first thing that struck us, as the canoe cut through the water, was the utter silence of the river.  There is nothing quite like it.  If you don't like peace and quiet then this is not the place for you.  We find it incredibly relaxing and it really is a great way to get in touch with nature.  The water was absolutely crystal clear and in certain places quite deep.  There were yellow lilies everywhere, nodding their heads in the current and we minded not at all the constant attention of the myriad of beautiful turquoise blue dragonflies that accompanied us throughout our journey.

French youth appear to be completely at home on the river

It was Lesley's cry of "Look, snake on the left!" that started it.  As we turned in unison and leant over to the left of the craft to get a better view of the swimming serpent, we realised quite quickly that we were in trouble.  Over she went in the blink of an eye coming down on Lesley's and my heads.  Whilst understanding we weren't exactly lost up the Orinoco it was slightly disturbing to think of the snake getting up close to us in the water, even as we madly splashed about laughing out loudly.  The problem that followed taxed us somewhat more.  We had to work out how best to empty our canoe of all its river water and the only solution was to drag the thing over to the river bank and roll the unwieldy object over on its back.  Soon we were back on the river, the bit between our teeth so to speak, cutting our way past relaxed solitary fisherman working the river and the odd river swimmer.

The Dronne stretches ahead

We think this stretch between Creyssac and Lisle is particularly beautiful with five barrages (weirs) to negotiate.  When one comes across one's first barrage it is a little disconcerting.  You can't actually see it but you can sure hear it.  The instructions received from Romain at the outset about the way to tackle each barrage disappear as you plunge over the edge, but oh, what fun as you pop up at the bottom and continue your journey.

Marine running the cabine d'acceuil.  Here you can enjoy soft drinks and snacks

If you are organised enough I would recommend taking a coldbox in the canoe with you, but try not to capsize as that won't help your ham sandwiches.  There are some stunning spots to be found on the riverbanks.  On some runs one can find small isles to hop onto for a leisurely lunch.  We have been lucky enough to have seen spotted otters in the water and if you don't see a kingfisher flashing about the riverbank consider yourself unlucky.  River canoeing really is a great way of seeing nature raw in tooth and claw.

A day out in La Rochelle

 

The cosy ambience of Segonzac, the first French town to win the award of 'Slow Town'

Drive north west for a couple of hours from Ribérac and you will find yourself in the small but beautifully formed town of Segonzac.  The town recently became the first French town to be awarded the title of Cittàslow meaning Slow Town.  This movement began in Italy about 10 years ago but now encompasses over 140 towns in 20 countries including the UK.  The idea of Cittàslow is to encourage a quality of life for both locals and visitors.  Quality of life means supporting local businesses, being respectful of the enviroment whilst doing everything to keep local traditions alive.  From what Lesley and I saw as we passed through on our way to Cognac and the historic coastal town of La Rochelle beyond, the mayor, Mme Marendat, is doing a fine job.

 

The bustling port of La Rochelle

The approach to La Rochelle is not promising;  the landscape north west of Cognac reminds me a little of the Romney Marshes in Kent and unless you are fond of sheep is not particularly inspiring.  Things begin to improve as the coast comes into view and you enter the city proper.  One is first struck by the thought that money is/has been spent here in recent times.  There's more than a whiff of prosperity on the salt laden air. 

 

Signs of La Rochelle's prosperous past are evident in these proud buildings

La Rochelle's magnificently preserved covered market, thankfully still in use today

Renaissance buildings that line the streets set out in a grid pattern point proudly down to the famous twin tower harbour entrance and the Bay of Biscay beyond.  Collonades and arches abound.  Most buildings seem to have been tastefully restored and the renovation works seem to be going on apace.  Glitzy shops line the arcades and one suspects a lot of business is done with visiting 'yachties' who patronise the largest marina for pleasure craft in Europe, Les Minimes.

 

Some of La Rochelle's residents in discussion, perhaps an example of the city's past role as a major shipping base to routes to Africa and the Antilles?

Like its equally prosperous cousin further south, Bordeaux, La Rochelle has encouraged the use of cycles at the expense of cars.  They are everywhere and people of all ages, shapes and sizes, take full advantage of this bike friendly city.  If you do not have your own bike just jump on one of the many 'Yelo' town bikes that you'll find located at strategic points around the town and your'e off.  This is definitely the future for getting mobile in town centres.  Is it just my imagination or do the French seem so much more forward thinking in this respect than their UK counterparts?

 

Children can ride safely, even in this mode

 

Cycle cops, off to lunch?

City cycles courtesly of 'Yelo'

Ribérac opens its own high-tech gym

 

Sian welcoming clients at the gym reception

Today we paid a visit to Ribérac's latest attraction, its very own high-tech gym.   The gym is situated just off the Avenue de Royan directly behind Ribérac's recently refurbished muniicipal swimming pool.   We were greeted by the very friendly young couple, Richard and Sian Baker, whose brainchild this was.  In response to local demand for a gym Richard and Sian identified a business opportunity and with the help of the local mayor, M. Terrienne their dream has now come to fruition. 

Ribérac is lucky to have a facility such as this

The doors were opened on January 5 and so far, Sian informed us,  90% of the clientèle are French.  This is a far higher percentage than either Richard or Sian had anticipated.  Whilst looking round the gym and admiring its state of the art facilites (apparently they are on par with some of David Lloyd's finest in the UK) the French clients were all hard at it putting the machinery through its paces, and all seemed happy with their progress.

Exercising with a difference, high-tech equipment plus a nice view

It was difficult to restrain myself from joining in and jumping onto one of the machines but modesty forbade me and besides some of the equipment looked like it had been borrowed straight from the bridge of the Starship Enterprise, not suprisingly it emanates from the Matrix  Fitness Systems stable.

 

Set the controls for the heart of the sun, the 21st century comes to Ribérac

Any colour you like, medicine balls for circuit training

There are two exercise rooms or salles.  One has a range of equipment to promote cardio-vascular health;  here you might try one of the exercise bikes (known naturally enough in France as velo d'appartement)  treadmill, rowing machine or skiing machine.  All were being well patronised at the time of our visit.  The other room concentrates on building and maintaining strength, so naturally enough there is a full range of weights and their related machinery such as the lat pull and the leg curl.  So there is something for everyone here.

Sian demonstrates the lat pull

If you decide to join you will be in very good hands.  Both Richard and Sian come from backgrounds within the fitness industry having worked themselves as personal trainers.  Richard began his career as a PTI in the army so what better grounding could one have.  The charges appear to be very reasonable considering the quality and standard of equipment and if you don't wish to take up an annual subscription the gym offers' a 'Sans Abonnement' deal where you can have a carnet for just one seance or a block of 10 seances.  This is ideal for people here on holiday or just passing through and who need their regular fix of endorphines.

Richard and Sian can be contacted by telephone on 06 47 70 89 14, by email at richard@enforme-riberac.fr or you can visit their website at www.enforme-riberac.fr