If you ever find yourself a few minutes south of Bergerac take time to seek out the route C202 and then turn southwards towards the small hamlet of Ribagnac. For here, set amongst the vignobles of Bergerac, in an area dominated by row after row of vines set aside for Monbazillac wine, although not exclusively so, you will find with a little perseverance, the Château de Bridoire. It sits on a large oxbow shaped chunk of chalk dominating a small, wooded valley. It lies so close to the road you feel you can reach out and touch it. It looks enticing and entirely approachable. It draws you in...and there, you suspect lies its downfall.
Building work started around the mid 12c, even before Henry 11 had begun to think about his castle at Dover. The Château survived everything the Hundred Years War and the Wars of Religion could throw at it. Quite remarkable when you think it sat so closely to Catholic Périgueux and Protestant Bergerac. It even survived the French Revolution. All, relatively speaking, seemed well, until the Château arrived in the 20c.
The Château looks impregnable from here, but as you can see, not to some of the 20c finest vandals
In 1939, just prior to the Second World War, a Swiss gentleman, by the name of M. Lecher took over the château's guardianship. In 1978, M. Lecher's home sickness got the better of him and he returned to Switzerland. In an act of extreme generosity he offered the commune his château for the princely sum of 1 Franc. Sadly for us and the Château, the commune balked at the idea of such responsibility and its fate was thus sealed. It was finally sold in the same year by "une société civile immobilère agricole de droit Sénégalais, la SCIA Roume Bouffler"
This curved masonry work is breathtaking
The Château's steepling rear wall
What the Protestants and Maximillien de Robespierre failed to acheive over religion and ideals, their equivalent late 20c counterparts succeeded in a wanton, insidious, period of protracted and mindless vandalism over the ensuing twenty years. Meaningless graffiti abounds, beautiful parquet flooring of the Renaissance, pulled up and burnt to keep some modern vandal warm; carvings and tapestries all removed, even staircases spirited away. One could quite easily argue that man driven by religion or political ideals might be excused this type of behaviour, and in a way, the fact that the majority of the destruction has taken place in modern times is indeed a sad reflection of how we, supposedly civilised people have lost our way.
This symbol of three swords greets you on the right of the entrance
Whilst this one greets you on the left
Today, the Château de Bridoire is protected by "l'Association Historique de Ribagnac pour la Sauvegarde du Château de Bridoire" which was formed in 1989. Hopefully, with a little state intervention and the goodwill of others, we all might one day be able to enter the Château in an educated way and enjoy what is truly unique. For the Château de Bridoire is the the only standing medieval Château that still stands proudly in the Bergercois. This, amongst many other things, is what makes this place so special.
To follow the future of Château Bridoire log on to http://chateaubridoire.blogspot.com
To follow the future of Château Bridoire log on to http://chateaubridoire.blogspot.com
This fallen crenellation from the curtain wall lies wonderfully camouflaged amongst the undergrowth
Follow the C202 from Rouffignac towards Ribagnac
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