This is a fine example of classical Paloise architecture
We have heard a lot about Pau over the years so were keen to see what it was all about. We had located ourselves slightly uptown, that is to say a 10 minute walk north from the Boulevard des Pyrénées squares and main shopping centre in a beautiful Paloise style house belonging to Agnes and Benoit which they run as a B&B. Pau is the birthplace of Henri 1V or Henri of Navarre and the overly restored chateau where he was born still stands proudly overlooking the Pyrenees a few miles to the south.
Agnes and Benoit's house where we stayed, interesting isn't it?
Jean Baptiste Bernadotte born here in 1763, Marshall of Napoleon who later became King of Sweden. The current King of Sweden, Carl Gustav is his direct descendent. For his full story, visit this museum
A favourite then, as now, amongst the English who had already begun to settle here in mid-Victorian times. Pau still bears witness to fox hunting in red tunics with all the trimmings. Palm planted esplanades and cliffsides remind one of Torquay or Bournemouth and you can get a jolly good cup of tea at one of the cafes positioned next to the 'seafront'. Being open minded we entered the city in positive mood and full of expectation.
The only umbrella maker left in the S.W of France. Something to keep the rain off when contemplating your sheep
Well the truth is that Pau can delight and frustrate at the same time. One moment elegant graceful buildings reflecting Pau's prosperous past, the next, trashed and derelict buildings and quite a few boarded up shops. Again, grafitti here is a major problem; kids with too much time, zero imagination and no moral code. A shame really as all the magnificent countryside and mountains would seem to pass them all by. Quite obviously they would rather hang out with a can of spray paint and a Blackberry device and bob about on a street corner.
The French just adore everything British
As the departmental capital of the Pyrenees Atlantiques, Pau is in an advantageous position as far as securing funds for 'improvements' are concerned. Massive work is underway in a shopping area close to the chateau and whilst it is good to see old buildings and streets being restored we were both disappointed to see the ubiquitous 'label' shops opening up in the finished sections of the renovation, doing little more than boosting China's GDP. Not much imagination going on here/ One felt it could have been Canterbury, Croydon or Calais one was visiting and with more and more people shopping online one wonders at the grand strategic plan going on. It seems we've just plain run out of ideas.
This old mill appears to have been neglected at the expense of other projects
Pau's Departmental Hotel, along with its astroturf and plastic plant pots. Progress?
Another example of appalling planning in action sits at the bottom of the Boulevard des Pyrénées. Here amongst the exotic palms and Belle Epoche funicular railway lies a glass monstrosity which is, I think, the departmental hotel and which deals with all administration matters relating to the department. Commissioned by Francois Bayrou it is an example of modernist architecture with no consideration for what went before. I don't know what the cost was to the taxpayer to erect this thing but it appears to be at the sacrifice of the incredible 16c mill, battered, broken and in terminal decline that sits almost shamefully alongside. This is a stark juxtaposition and cruel evidence to man's insensitivity and vaingloriousness.
This majestic old building could really do with some TLC and a shed load of money
Any takers?
You can almost imagine Poirot wandering up the path in his white Homburg
Despite its faults, we found Pau to be a fascinating and vibrant city and we will definitely return. Our B&B hosts Agnes and Laroit were true Bearnaises and fiercely proud of their Paloise roots. They enthused about all things local and gave us lots of good tips about regional cheeses, sausages and wine. In fact on the night of our arrival whilst sharing a glass or two of the local wine, a very fine Juraçon (one of my favourite sweet whites of the vendange tardive variety), Benoit pulled out his accordian and treated us to some traditional music. It was a very special moment and not one he reserves just for the tourists. Un grand merci à Agnes et Benoit.
Benoit lets rip with some traditional tunes. It was a magical moment
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