Cahors - a medieval city on the River Lot

 

Everybody's favourite, my version of the famous Valentré bridge which was 70 years in creation (1308-1378)

After a very pleasant sojourn in St Cirq La Popie, Lesley and I headed west into the departmental capital of the Lot, Cahors.  Naturally enough I've always associated this medieval gem, which hosts the most complete example of a medieval fortified bridge in France, with the local wine.  Famous for its deep ruby colour, it is known as 'the black wine, but more of this later.  Wandering around the dark and brooding 15th and 16th century streets we were reminded of Barcelona's old town; four and five storey buildings hanging over narrow streets and passages where the sun never shines.  Take time to crick your neck and look skywards, quite often that is where the more interesting aspects of architecture are to be found.  The example of a Renaissance window in the photograph below is a case in point.  All that craftsmanship and skill lost to most passers-by.  The only people who really benefit from this are the neighbours who live opposite.  Not a view of the mountains  or forests maybe but definitely a room with a view.  The photograph also shows the type of building material used in this area.  In the Dordogne it's all limestone.  Further south towards Sarlat-le-Caneda it changes to sandstone with a redder hue.  In Cahors it's a type of red brick, somewhat similar in size and colour to its English Tudor counterpart.  I often wonder who actually lives in these buildings and what work (if any) do they do.  One rarely observes anybody coming or going but life exists there as it has done for at least 400 years. Presumably now there is less need to avoid the emptying of chamber pots from those elaborate windows into the streets below.

 

I think this outstanding example of Italian influence architecture was up on the 3rd floor

 

This old signage caught my eye amongst the narrow back streets

The cathédrale Saint Étienne's omnipotence is apparent as it rises above the old quarter.  Finished in about 1135 the building has a fortified air about it.  Not surprising really as at the time  Cahors was run by local bishops who were also acting as feudal barons and landlords.  An analogy with the despotic mandarins now holding sway over Europe in the crumbling edifice of fortress Brussels comes to mind.

Saint Etienne Cathedral rises above the Saturday morning market

 

French markets like the one in Cahors are much more than just about buying 

 

It could be Brick Lane

The Cathedral's north portico looks out over the Place Jean Jacques Chapou and every Saturday a very lively and authentic market completely subsumes the space.  A bit like Ribérac market, most things are available here.  On the day Lesley and I were present we had the sense that we were the only tourists and that this was a place well patronised by 'Les Cadurcians'.  Heated and animated discussion was all around as everything from the weather to the price of tomatoes was dissected.  Lesley and I both thought that some of the reasons we loved Cahors were its authenticity and a working atmosphere. Evidently a multicultural society exists here and it seems for the most part, the different ethnic groups rub along happily.  Unfortunately, like so many French towns and cities it does suffer from more than its fair share of grafitti.  Cruel to witness on all that Renaissance stone and brickwork.

 

21c meets 15c in a typical Cahors back street

One of the market stalls I felt drawn towards was that of Jean-Jacques Bousquet, vigneron, récoltant and proprietor of Domaine de la Garde.  Here I was able to taste some of Jean-Jacques finest.  His wines were very approachable for drinking now or, because of their robustness with a fine balance of tannins, just as good for keeping.  Jean-Jacques vineyard lies outside Cahors 12 kms to the south west.  Here he grows the famous Malbec or Auxerrois grape that dominates the cepage alongside its cousins the Merlot and Tanat.  The grapes are grown by the Lot and up on the Causse itself.  The Causse is an area of harsh exposed limestone plateau where the sun beats down relentlessy and the wind scours.  It is this that makes the wine so distinct as the vines battle it out with the elements. 

 

Jean-Jacques Bousquet enthuses about his wines

The Malbec grape is what gives Cahors wine its tannins and therefore its ability to age, and age really well.  At one time the Malbec grape covered a far greater area of south-west France than it does now, right down to Bordeaux itself.  Now, the Cahors vineyards are the only remaining stronghold of this unique grape variety.  Try a 15 or 20 year old Cahors wine and you will understand what I mean, truly sublime.  What has been France's loss has been Argentina's gain.  For the Malbec grape has found a new spiritual home in Mendoza, Argentina where it rules the roost often under ex-pat French vignerons who have exported their wine making skills to the land of steak and gauchos.  Apparently it is going from strength to strength here and flourishes under south American climatic conditions.  So having bought a few bottles of Jean-Jacques selection and also some fine local goat cheese, Lesley and I headed off south-west, towards the Quercy and a circuitous route back to Ribérac

 

These gourds make great decoration and last for ages

 

The French never miss an opportunity to promote their produce, like these Malbec vines growing alongside the Pont Valentré

 

A short step from the market takes you to the Place Charles de Gaulle.  Here you will find this very special charcuterie.  We tried the interesting myrtle, garlic and (my favourite) Roquefort flavoured speciality 'fait maison' saucissons