Lunch in Saint Martial Viveyrols

Chez Moran - home to regional cooking

The good weather continues, bright blue skies mostly, with a pleasantly warm breeze blowing up from the south.  Certain vignerons are describing 2011's conditions as something totally new and unknown in the annals of wine-making.  Early flowering and early picking (up to 3 weeks) are set to produce another spectacular year to follow the millesimes of 2009 and 2010.  Apparently the resonance of secateurs in the vines could be heard as early as August 29 and continued almost unabated until 5 October.  Of course by then you have the 'vendange tardive' to consider and all things 'pourriture noble' or noble rot, Sauternes, Monbazillac, Saussignac, Jurançon et al.  It appears to have been another exceptional year which one assumes can only be good for the vignerons and the local economy as a whole.

That soup was truly delicicous

Guests who come to stay with us at our B&B often ask about local restaurants we can recommend.  Lesley and I are happy to do this but we will not recommend anywhere we've not eaten so naturally we have to undertake a bit of research every now and then.  On this occasion our research took us in the direction of the Charente border to the small village of Saint Martial Viveyrols.  Here you will find 'Chez Moran', a truly authentic country restaurant serving up fresh regional food.  These kind of establishments are becoming rarer by the day, so it was encouraging to find, as we pulled up, a full car park.  Always a good sign and so it turned out.  A warm buzz of voices and the reassuring sound of clanking plates and rattling cutlery welcomed us as we were ushered to a table.  There is no menu.  If you do not like such delicacies as andouillette, ris de veau, pigs trotters and the like, then you do take a certain risk.  But for us that's part of the fun.

Gourmet cooking at country prices - magret de canard done to perfection

To start we were given one of those huge tureens of soup, gently steaming in the midday sunlight that streamed through the large plate glass window.  It consisted of (we think) blended squash, pumpkin, potiron or something similar, with potato and tapioca and a little cream stirred in.  It was absolutely delicious and I mistakenly helped myself to a second bowlful.  Really, the soup was sufficient enough as a meal in its own right and certainly so when helped down by hunks of country bread.  

The most interesting cheese on the board was the chevre cendrier

But we had work to do so it was on with the starter, a Perigordian salad consisting of lettuce, gesiers and lardons with a vinaigrette dressing to cut through the fat.  We were warming to our task by now and wondered at all this regional food being served up.  After a pause for a sip or two of vin de table we tackled the main course, sliced roasted magret de canard, served with pommes Lyonnaise.  Gastronomic heaven!  So as not to be rude the rather full cheese board was greeted with pinched smiles and bulging waistlines.  One final thrust found us sipping our coffees in quiet relief.  Totally sated we sunk into somnolence enveloped in the ambience surrounding us as we digested our food.  All in all a true country experience at Chez Moran.  Lovely local produce served up in unpretentious surroundings.  Highly recommended.  So here's to Mme Moran (who does the all the cooking) and her husband (front of house).  Long may they prosper!

This classic Citröen 2cv looked so perfect parked up outside