Where do French chefs come from?...

 MFR - Masion Familial Rurale

Every Wednesday and Thursday, during term-time one can enjoy a top restaurant quality lunch along with a good bottle of wine at the redundant hilltop railway station at Siorac de Ribérac.  Head out of Ribérac due south and you will soon discover 'La Gare' the old station and its ensemble of sheds and buildings including the waiting room.  In France, due to its expanse and remoteness, coming across such places always evokes a high sense of the past.  If one stares down the empty track and cocks an ear, it is not hard to hear the rattle of the approaching train coupled with a hiss of steam as the engine and carriages pull into view.  

 

You can just hear the 8.15 chugging its way up from Ribérac, maybe...

This is the setting for the local Maison Familiale Rurale du Ribéracois (MFR) centre of training in Restauration and Hostellerie.  The MFR scheme funded by the local authorities and government covers all of metropolitan France and its overseas departments.  It offers training schemes to young people in anything from viticulture to forestry and lots more in between. 

Upon arrival at the old station one is greeted by David and Katya, the young managers of the training school.   A stagiarie or trainee is then assigned to you for the duration of the meal.  We were graced by a young lady who would not have looked out of place waiting at table in Paris during the Belle Epoque.  Smartly attired classic waiters garb, her service was impeccable.  She told us she had aspirations to go to America and work in the restaurant trade.  We are sure she'll do well and we wish her luck.

A 'stagiaire' developing her tableside skills

David and Katya cut their teeth in a restaurant in Guildford in the south of England and are now passing on their knowledge and skill to a new generation of restaurateurs and aspiring chefs.  David leads the cooking whilst Katya deals with front of house.  During the meal Katya is to be seen moving graciously between the tables, clipboard in hand, making notes about the students as they go about their work.  A quiet word here and there ensures a wine bottle is opened in the correct fashion, or the cherries are being flambéed correctly.  The students hang on her every word. 

 

Escalope Viennoise with Spaghetti Napolitaine, an interesting accompagniment?

Last Thursday's menu consisted of an entreé of Potage Cultivatuer, a pure vegetable soup that captured the delicate flavour of locally grown vegetables.  This was followed by Escalope Viennoise accompanied by, somewhat strangely we felt, Spaghetti Napolitaine.  The sweet that followed was a work of art, a beautifully cut pineapple sliced into quarters down its length with the fruit carefully cut away from the core in segments and then returned to the pineapple.  It looked a little like a dinosaur with a new set of dentures, but as I say a work of art revealing great skill.  To accompany the meal we chose a really good Bergerac red 2009.  It was astonishing value! 

 

This arrangement is called simply 'Ananas en quartiers'

So if you want to get an insight into what the French chefs/restrauteurs of the future are creating, book a table by ringing Katya on 0553919494.  Be aware the restaurant is only open during term time and you need to book ahead as it's very well patronised by those in the know.

 

David (in classic chef's hat) with his team of 11 trainee chefs

 

The old railway buildings still intact, that's the former waiting room in the background